Istria is the largest peninsula In the Adriatic Sea. As well as boasting a stunning sea typical for the Croatian coast, it is a fascinating place where Italian, Slavic/Croatian and Germanic cultures all meet. Great food and fantastic scenery combined with a huge variety of things to do really make it an ideal travel destination. Today, its territory is split between Croatia, Slovenia and Italy. This guide is for Croatian Istria, which accounts for around 90% of the land area. These are a selection of my top five must-see Istrian attractions to visit that are somewhat off the beaten track, allowing travelers to really get beneath the surface in this popular destination.
Above: Old town Labin, Croatia
1. Labin
Lovely Labin is situated in the relatively unknown central-eastern Istria. This beautiful town retains a high degree of authenticity, whilst boasting pretty historical architecture which Istria is famed for. Neither tourist numbers nor prices are inflated to the levels in the busy towns on Istria’s west coast. And the views from the 17th century St. Justus’s belltower in its old town are to die for! Outside the historical core, Labin is unusual in Istria for having a significant amount of industrial heritage. Indeed, it has been a centre of coal mining for hundreds of years. And sampling krafi-a sweet stuffed pasta unique to Labin and its surroundings-is a must try. Traditionally filled with cream cheese, raisins and scented with lemon rind and spices, this ancient staple of celebrations can now be sampled all year round at local restaurants.
Above: Dino sampling krafi in Labin, Istria, Croatia
2. Vodnjan and its Mummies
The best preserved indigenous European mummies are found in Istria. Yes, you read that right! Their remains are hidden behind the high altar of St. Blaise’s church in Vodnjan, Croatia. The fee to see them includes an audio guide (available in English) and entrance to the small but fascinating museum at the rear of the church. In June 1818, a man by the name of Gaetano Gresler transported the mummies out of Venice to stop them being destroyed by Napolean Bonaparte’s troops. But after Napoleon’s defeat they remained in Vodnjan, where many miraculous events have been attributed to them.
Above: Vodnjan Mummies
Today, nothing quite prepares you for coming face to face with the four mummies, who are displayed at waist level in glass cases. What is most remarkable is that they have never been embalmed, and CT scans reveal that two out of four of them have all their internal organs intact. The mummies are as follows:
St. Paul, Archbishop of Constantinople (died 351 A.D.)
St. Leon Bembo, Bishop of Venice (died 1188 A.D.)
St. John Olini (died ca. 1300 A.D.)
St. Nikoloza Bursa (died 1512 A.D.)
3. Gracisce and Konoba Marino Restaurant
Above: centre of Gracisce, Croatia, with the 15th century St. Mary’s church shown in the middle
Gracisce is a small historical town not far from Pazin, Istria’s capital, right in the centre of the peninsula. Its high up location means breathtaking views, including the Alps on clear days. Many of the town’s buildings date to the 15th and 16th centuries and have since been little altered. Certainly, the main town square-centred on the 15th century St. Mary’s church-would have looked virtually the same 500 years ago. It is truly like stepping back in time to the medieval era. Being so far from the coast does mean fewer tourist numbers, and even in the high season Gracisce does not feel overwhelming. As it is on a main road, it is easy to get to if you have a hire car.
Above: traditional Istrian food served at Konoba Marino restaurant, Gracisce
Gracisce is also home to an amazing restaurant called Konoba Marino. Its owner, Svetlana, is a local woman who cooks authentic Istrian and Balkan dishes. She ardently refuses to inflate her prices or alter her menu to cater for tourists. This is easily one of the best restaurants I have ever eaten in the entire region.
4. Wine and Olive Oil Tasting
Istria is famed for its high-quality olive oil, which is reputed to be among the best in the world. But its wines are arguably equally good. Therefore, for me, no trip to Istria would be complete without going for wine and olive oil tasting. Our choice to do this would be the Babos Winery in Vodnjan. As well as wine and olive oil, the lovely Istrian-Italian hosts also serve their own home-made charcuterie and cakes! My personal favourite wine is their Muscat, as it is sweet, and I love sweet wine. My mother, on the other hand, loves locally made Malvazija (Malvasia).
Above: tasting wine and sampling home-made charcuterie at Babos Winery, Vodnjan, Croatia
Those used to only supermarket olive oil in the West will be truly amazed, as the depth of taste and variety of Istrian olive oils is astounding. Babos serves two home-made varieties for purchase: a fresh, crisp tasting olive oil that is versatile and also suited for frying, and a very strong, bold flavoured one that is best suited to salads and drizzling after cooking. If you want a specialies olive oil experience where you can try over ten different varieties, then I highly recommend Bembo in nearby Bale-Valle.
5. Brijuni Islands
Above: Marshall Tito’s 1953 Cadillac in the foreground on Great Brijuni Island, against a background photo of Tito himself driving it!
This beautiful archipelago off the western coast of Istria is today best known for being the private summer residence of Josip Broz ‘Tito’ (1892-1980), the Communist strongman who ruled Yugoslavia from 1945 until his death. Arriving by ferry from Fazana on Istria’s mainland, you are first struck by the brutalist style buildings on the main island, Veliki (Great) Brijun. They now function as hotels for tourists where you can stay the night if you wish. If you are on a guided tour, you will be taken to see Tito’s 1953 Cadillac in front of a museum that’s dedicated to the man himself. Inside you can see photographs of Tito with dozens of world leaders, in itself a reminder of how powerful Yugoslavia was.
Above: the view from the ferry at Fazana, Croatia as it sets sail for the Brijuni Islands
But there is much more to see on Brijuni. I highly recommend taking a train around the main island. As well as enjoying amazing, unspoilt scenery, you’ll see Tito’s former private zoo (today no new animals are being accepted and it functions more as a wildlife sanctuary), Roman-era ruins, ancient churches and more. It is truly like travelling through time over the centuries. Tito’s former private summer residence is on Vanga, one of the smaller islands in the archipelago. It is sadly closed to the public, though there are plans to open it in the future.
Have you ever been to Istria? Would you like to go? Comment below and tell us
